FSU picked up some fingering 3-ply for me to try out with this pattern since we're still not sure how the gauge will work out with the Jitterbug. FWIW, Jitterbug is a bit heavier than the Lisa Souza yarn I've been working with all this time. The yarn I'm trying out this time is DGB Confetti and is ~210m/50gm (30 stitches/42 rows per 4" on 2-3 needles (US size?) I'm using the same size needles with the 3-ply as I am with Jitterbug - 2.75mm). I will admit, I'm suspecting she's gone too far the other way with this yarn and I need a thinner fingering 4-ply. We'll see as the socks progress.
In any case, the problem transferred side stitches came back and haunted me again, but I'm getting ahead of myself. FSU suggested a slight variation on the pattern again as I once again misread the m1 knits as YOs. That symbol's just too similar when you're not thinking! So, the variant I've been doing so far is first row knit, begin pattern row knit heels first and instep second! For the right side m1 knits = m1 knit through the front loop (picked up back to front), and left side m1's = m1 knit through the back loop (picked up front to back). This is kept consistent throughout the pattern. (I guess this is a normal thing to do with toe-up socks?)
This continues until row 17 where the transferred stitches start happening. I think I've tried pretty much everything when it comes to these stitches now... >.> Anyhow, what I've tried and found:
1. Heels first, instep second; transfer stitch from instep to heel needle unworked and k2tog with first stitch, k28, SSK with first stitch from instep (currently being used with the Jitterbug socks) - this results in a slightly larger sole but the end stitches are the neatest.
2. Heels first, instep second; knit to last stitch on even round on instep, knit stitch on new working needle, k2tog, k26, SSK, k1 from instep needle, instep pattern as written! - this is probably what the designer wanted, but they never said to work the end stitches!
3. Instep first, heels second... there are two choices, slip the first instep stitch to the heel needle before working the instep pattern, or knit the first stitch and transfer it later. Either way, that first instep stitch throws the pattern off if you ignore it. The first method of slipping the first stitch leaves a slightly larger hole compared to the second.
FWIW, the first is the easiest method as everything is on the same level, but the bottom sole has 2 knit stitches more than written on the chart. I don't know if there'll be a real difference between #1 and #2 when it comes to how the socks look in the end. #2 keeps the number of knit stitches on the sole as per the chart. Neither chart indicated what to do with the end transferred stitch, and I don't think I saw any written destructions for that part either. >.>
Once you've decided on your method for the transferred stitches, the actual pattern isn't that difficult; there are just various stitches and symbols to keep track of. (Or if you're me, not keep track of and end up picking your way back.) However, if you've done any lace knitting, it should be simple enough. As for the different m1 knit stitches I'm doing at the moment... I'll admit, I didn't really pay attention when doing the Jitterbug socks, but there is a slight difference because of the stitch slant. I'll try taking some photos tomorrow to illustrate this. ^^; (FWIW, I've been doing all my m1 knits through the front loop and not the back as written in the instructions.)
And with that, I'm going to double check the m1 purl stitch direction tomorrow and double check my gauge once I reach the end of the first chart. (It seems to be 8 stitches/inch, but that's what I thought with the Jitterbug at this point so I want to make sure once I'm out of the main increase stage.) It could be I'll be doing this all yet again with a thinner fingering 4-ply... >.>