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Scherherazade's Slippers Take 3

April 13th, 2008 (12:19 am)

current mood: aggravated

And here we go again. ginny_t, I hope you haven't begun this one yet, because I've decided that the first way I did things is indeed the best again... >.>

FSU picked up some fingering 3-ply for me to try out with this pattern since we're still not sure how the gauge will work out with the Jitterbug. FWIW, Jitterbug is a bit heavier than the Lisa Souza yarn I've been working with all this time. The yarn I'm trying out this time is DGB Confetti and is ~210m/50gm (30 stitches/42 rows per 4" on 2-3 needles (US size?) I'm using the same size needles with the 3-ply as I am with Jitterbug - 2.75mm). I will admit, I'm suspecting she's gone too far the other way with this yarn and I need a thinner fingering 4-ply. We'll see as the socks progress.

In any case, the problem transferred side stitches came back and haunted me again, but I'm getting ahead of myself. FSU suggested a slight variation on the pattern again as I once again misread the m1 knits as YOs. That symbol's just too similar when you're not thinking! So, the variant I've been doing so far is first row knit, begin pattern row knit heels first and instep second! For the right side m1 knits = m1 knit through the front loop (picked up back to front), and left side m1's = m1 knit through the back loop (picked up front to back). This is kept consistent throughout the pattern. (I guess this is a normal thing to do with toe-up socks?)

This continues until row 17 where the transferred stitches start happening. I think I've tried pretty much everything when it comes to these stitches now... >.> Anyhow, what I've tried and found:

1. Heels first, instep second; transfer stitch from instep to heel needle unworked and k2tog with first stitch, k28, SSK with first stitch from instep (currently being used with the Jitterbug socks) - this results in a slightly larger sole but the end stitches are the neatest.

2. Heels first, instep second; knit to last stitch on even round on instep, knit stitch on new working needle, k2tog, k26, SSK, k1 from instep needle, instep pattern as written! - this is probably what the designer wanted, but they never said to work the end stitches!

3. Instep first, heels second... there are two choices, slip the first instep stitch to the heel needle before working the instep pattern, or knit the first stitch and transfer it later. Either way, that first instep stitch throws the pattern off if you ignore it. The first method of slipping the first stitch leaves a slightly larger hole compared to the second.

FWIW, the first is the easiest method as everything is on the same level, but the bottom sole has 2 knit stitches more than written on the chart. I don't know if there'll be a real difference between #1 and #2 when it comes to how the socks look in the end. #2 keeps the number of knit stitches on the sole as per the chart. Neither chart indicated what to do with the end transferred stitch, and I don't think I saw any written destructions for that part either. >.>

Once you've decided on your method for the transferred stitches, the actual pattern isn't that difficult; there are just various stitches and symbols to keep track of. (Or if you're me, not keep track of and end up picking your way back.) However, if you've done any lace knitting, it should be simple enough. As for the different m1 knit stitches I'm doing at the moment... I'll admit, I didn't really pay attention when doing the Jitterbug socks, but there is a slight difference because of the stitch slant. I'll try taking some photos tomorrow to illustrate this. ^^; (FWIW, I've been doing all my m1 knits through the front loop and not the back as written in the instructions.)

And with that, I'm going to double check the m1 purl stitch direction tomorrow and double check my gauge once I reach the end of the first chart. (It seems to be 8 stitches/inch, but that's what I thought with the Jitterbug at this point so I want to make sure once I'm out of the main increase stage.) It could be I'll be doing this all yet again with a thinner fingering 4-ply... >.>


Posted by: Every knot was once straight rope (craftyginny)
Posted at: April 13th, 2008 02:28 pm (UTC)
hope in small things (Tom McRae lyric)

Excellent timing--I'm about to cast these on. Wish me luck!

The chart does use some screwy symbols. I wonder if it's worth it to rechart it using the more traditional symbols. I'll try it as it is for now.

Maybe try a smaller needle size instead of changing the yarn? Or would that be too dense?

I don't know that I'd worry all that much about messy end stitches. The socks should have negative ease, so the messy stitches will get pulled out (oh yeah, and they can get tidied a bit in blocking). They're also on the edge of the sole, so even if they show, they won't be that visible.

Posted by: Shadow (kagedreams)
Posted at: April 13th, 2008 07:50 pm (UTC)

Have fun with them! The pattern's easy, I'm just getting hung up on these stupid edges (and what weight yarn I really want to do them in). As for re-writing, I don't think it's really all that worth it as long as you keep the stupid m1 knits vs YO's clear. I only went 1.5 rows before the brain suddenly kicked in this time, but... yeah. My printout is blurry enough that it looks like a YO at a glance. *sigh*

Smaller needle size for... Jitterbug or Confetti? Jitterbug would be bad; I'm already afraid of snapping a needle sometimes because it gets tight and dense. Confetti's possible, but I'm still debating if I like the fabric it's making; it's quite a bit thinner than I expected. (Actually, the Confetti is a bit easier to knit so far since I'm not fighting the yarn as much with the needles. I suspect I'd really want to use one size up to work with Jitterbug comfortably.)

I know the end stitches aren't going to show that much, but it's annoying that the instructions there aren't a bit clearer. When I did the instep first, I completely didn't think about those since I wouldn't be getting to them for ~30 stitches only to suddenly wonder why my instep was shifted and why I suddenly had an extra stitch at the end of my needle. Mind you, it's the same with the m1 knits I'm doing. There's no real need to adjust for the slant of the m1's, but it's ever so slightly different and neater with the adjustment. :P (WRT the k2tog on the end or one stitch in, I'm curious as to where the seam will end up lying on the foot - how it'll look and if it'll be noticeable (feel-wise) to the wearer.) As it is with the Confetti, I'm a bit more concerned about keeping everything neater because it is that thin. (Besides, they'll be on your feet and get nicely stretched out.) *laughs*

Edited at 2008-04-13 07:54 pm (UTC)

Posted by: Every knot was once straight rope (craftyginny)
Posted at: April 13th, 2008 07:57 pm (UTC)
hope in small things (Tom McRae lyric)

Change needle size instead of "thinner fingering 4-ply". (I still have moments [like m1p + C4B] when I worry about my little wooden needle. I finished one row and realised now tense I was. My shoulder cracked three times. O_o )

I'm on row 29. I have adjusted (I think) to the symbols. When I got to the part where the stitches get transferred, I transferred each edge sole stitch to the instep needle instead (doing both at once on magic loop), so the ssk or k2tog is the first & last stitch. It seems to be working okay. *touch wood* My feet (so far) aren't sensitive enough to feel a seam. (Now, a loose tail in the toe? That drove my toes mad for hours until I could take the socks off and figure out what was going on.)

I'm just doing the same m1 everywhere. They're little and the yarn is dark. I've deemed it not worth the fuss. (O!, perfectionist, how you have fallen!)

Posted by: Shadow (kagedreams)
Posted at: April 13th, 2008 10:48 pm (UTC)

Yeah those m1p's are a bit tight sometimes. >.>

*laughs* It's a bit funny how you might or might not be sensitive to something. I'd hate to find out after knitting a whole sock that your feet didn't like how things ended up. >.>

*laughs* I'm going with the varying m1k and m1p. Might as well since I've restarted anyway. :P It's a shame that I don't think the Jitterbug will work out size-wise. I'll still keep going with it until the heels are done, but... *sigh* Mind you, the Amethyst socks are slightly larger than the Jitterbug, so maybe it'll be okay...?

Posted by: Every knot was once straight rope (craftyginny)
Posted at: April 13th, 2008 08:06 pm (UTC)
hope in small things (Tom McRae lyric)

Also, I hate M1P. I just had to say that. ARGH!

Posted by: Shadow (kagedreams)
Posted at: April 13th, 2008 10:49 pm (UTC)

You could do the m1p the other way in the front loop (pick up the other way) rather than the back if it makes things a little easier. ^^;

Posted by: Every knot was once straight rope (craftyginny)
Posted at: April 13th, 2008 11:17 pm (UTC)
hope in small things (Tom McRae lyric)

So on round 30 I noticed that half of my cables were crossed in the wrong direction. A sensible person would've shrugged and decided they're dark cables near the toe; how much can they matter? Have you ever known me to do what a sensible person would do? (Ohgod, I hope not.) I had a terror there, with 4 stitches dropped down a good 12 rows that I had Made A Mistake and that I would have to frog the whole thing. Fortunately, Stubborn came to join Maniacal, and they got me through. Now, I think tea is in order. O_O

Posted by: Shadow (kagedreams)
Posted at: April 14th, 2008 12:02 am (UTC)

Okay, I take that back. The m1p front loop looks like it'll leave more of a hole than through the back loop. I'm not liking how the variable m1p's look, so I'll be tinking back 6 rows and going with a single m1p. *sigh*

Yikes! Sounds like you had a bit of an ugh there! *pours tea* Hope things go better for you now. ^^;

Posted by: Every knot was once straight rope (craftyginny)
Posted at: April 14th, 2008 12:19 am (UTC)
hope in small things (Tom McRae lyric)

Tea for everyone, I think. O_o

Mine's going better for now, yeah. Hope your tinking isn't too tedious. *pours tea*

(Hee, this is turning into quite the little KAL. ^_^)

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